New York Fashion Week Fall 2011: Men’s Trend Report
Written By: Sachin Bhola
Written For: AskMen.com
Remember the last time you looked at your suit and said, “Double-breasted? I can’t wear this. That’s so last season.”? Neither do we. That’s because you’re not a woman. You’re a man, and you’re not as driven by the very latest the garment industry has to offer, but are more interested in finding your own sartorial groove.
And that’s why we’re happy to report the so-called “trends” we’ve seen presented at New York Fashion Week Fall 2011 aren’t all that, well, trendy. Sure, there may have been the odd easy-to-scoff-at look on the runway (say, a dude wearing an oversize fluffy fur coat), but what would Fashion Week be without a few of those looks that, yes, even we editors laugh at?
From the great outdoors to a departure from the ultraskinny silhouettes that have dominated for seasons now, the styles for Fall 2011 are masculine, wearable and, with our help, can even help you save a few bucks. Here’s how to make sense of it all.
New York Fashion Week Fall 2011: Men’s Major Trends
Nicholas K: What’s more masculine than camping and hunting themes? “I was inspired by the woods and rustic living, the survival instinct and going back to primitive ways,” says Nicholas. “The fall colors of the forest are reflected in the palette and overall aesthetic, and I used a lot of texture.” Bonus points if you actually camp and hunt.
Gant by Michael Bastian: Only wear jeans? This trend lends itself well to breaking the denim mold. Michael Bastian showed moleskin cargos ranging from stone to camo print to five-pocket cords — all styled with hunting boots. Traditional sportswear pieces, like anoraks and puffer vests, were styled with blazers and trousers. The point here: Mix pieces of this trend rather than wearing it head to toe (Paul Bunyan, anyone?).
Perry Ellis: You’re thinking: “The brand I buy at Macy’s presents at Fashion Week?” Believe it. Perry Ellis has evolved into a brand that delivers directional messages in menswear. At New York Fashion Week Fall 2011, we saw the woodsman trend done in a grown folk’s way: lambswool turtlenecks layered under alpaca herringbone country trench coats, and shearling coats worn with Prince of Wales trousers. This is how a professional pulls off this trend.
Pull It Off: Some key takeaways here are to substitute your jeans uniform with five-pocket corduroys or slim-fit cargo pants; swap your combat boots for hunting ones (consider using colored shoe laces, like yellow or red); and hold on to your shearling coats for outerwear. Parkas are still cool (minus the bulk), as are heavy-knit wool socks that peek out of your boots and puffer vests worn over suiting. Key colors are hunter green and rustic orange.
Duckie Brown: “We’re showing these eight-pleat trousers… Maybe it’s time to get rid of our narrow jeans,” says designer Steven Cox. “It’s about shape; it’s about length… This collection is very chic. It wraps around the body and is very easy to wear,” adds codesigner Daniel Silver.
Carlos Campos: The designer took inspiration from Pablo Neruda, whose laid-back style was echoed in the collection’s sophisticated yet relaxed tailoring. Carlos Campos showed one of the strongest uses of rustic color, with some garments overdyed to create a more interesting visual.
But if you’re going to wear color, you don’t want it to fit like a second skin, because you’ll be making two bold statements. As always, subtlety is key.
Michael Kors: Kors showed suiting that represents the ideal fit: fitted but not skinny. Smoke-felted flannel trousers were slightly boot cut instead of narrow or tapered at the leg opening, and jackets had natural movement to them instead of feeling like straitjackets.
Pull It Off: Warning — relaxed tailoring does not equal baggy. Try pairing heavy layers for next fall: wear a chunky-knit sweater under a camel cashmere wrap coat; opt for trousers that are slightly boot cut; and play with color and pattern to take advantage of this fit.
This was a trend we picked up on during New York Fashion Week Fall 2010. Hyden Yoo referenced Teddy Boys from the mid-1950s, while Duckie Brown’s models all had short hair with piercings. Tim Hamilton showed punk-inspired scoop-neck T-shirts. Pull your Dr. Martens out of the closet, and layer hoodies under check blazers to achieve the look.
New York Fashion Week Fall 2011 Men’s
Watching a fashion show may be comical, but there’s definitely takeaway value in plugging into future trends. Use this guide to navigate style next fall.